Information

Responsibilities of a good tech inspector:    As a tech inspector you have a responsibility to make sure that the paying customers go home knowing they raced against other legal competition. Put yourself in their shoes. By that I mean, you paid a fee to participate just like the other guy did. And, you would like to know at the end of the evening if you raced against other legal engines. So, with that being said, lets discuss some teching situations.
    First off, never allow a track owner or race director to dictate to you who gets teched and what to tech. You are the tech guy. It is your job to identify who you feel should be looked at. If you are at the track week in and week out, it won't take you long to determine who needs looked at. I have seen way to many situation where a track owner or race director dictates who should get looked at and it isn't always the one who needs looked at. The race director or owner has hired you to do the teching and at that point they should trust you to do the job correctly.
    Let's talk about the local Saturday night tech. Especially the ones who are offering points championships at the end of the year. You should make a statement the very first week by looking at something in at least 2 or more of the largest classes of the evening. This gets the word out right away that you will be paying attention. You need not do much at all. A simple fuel check or a lift check at one of the retainers, or even pull a spring to check for legal pressure. You only need to do the winner. If he passes, tech is over for that class. If he fails, you need to look at the second place guy for the same thing. Pay attention each week at those who are running up front. If one individual is getting a points lead on the rest of the field, then you need to look a little further to satisfy the rest of the field.   At that point in time, you should verify that the carb, springs, lift, CC, stroke, and head is legal. If everything is good to go, shake the mans hand and congratulate him. Let him know that you needed to demonstrate to the other competitors they need to do their homework a little better. By keeping an eye on the points divisions, you will develop a good reputation as a tech who is there for a reason.
Now let us discuss how the tech procedure should take place. Recently I received a phone call from a tech that had problems in the tech room due to people in there that shouldn't have been. It turned into a pissing and moaning contest by everyone who had an opinion about the item in question.!! Way to many opinions in the room. When I do tech, there is only one representative to the engine during the tech. If there are more than one person standing around when I get ready, I simply ask " who will be representing this engine during the tech" I then announce that "during the tech, there only may be one person present". If you are in a trailer or building that is great. If you are outside on a table, rope an area off so that everyone knows where to stand outside the tech area.. To many eyes and to many opinions can cause a great deal of controversy during the tech and following the tech when they leave the tech area.
Never take a part off the engine without the permission of the representative to the engine. There has been times when I have had to disassemble an engine due to the fact that the owner didn't have a clue and no one was available to do the dis-assembly. But, I always inform the representative to the engine that I will not be held responsible for any damage to parts that may be difficult to remove. Take time to inform the representative as to your intentions before disassembling anything so he has an awareness as to what is going to take place and why.
    Never use language like "I will let it go this time " or " I will cut you a break". I guarantee you as soon as the guy leaves the tech shed, he is going to tell his buddies that you gave him a break and the next guy will be looking for the same thing when he comes in the tech room!!!. If you aren't sure about something put it on hold and explain to the individual that you need to get further information on the item. Unfortunately, tech has to end right there. If something is suspicious and you don't know how to call it, take a picture of the part and give it back to the individual but tell him not to bring it back unless you call him and tell him that your research says the item in question is ok. Make sure to get a contact number.

Here is a story that is relevant to the point I am trying to get across when it comes to being a good tech inspector. At a local track there was a class that was full of karts. It was a very competitive class, 18 to 22 karts at times, and some exciting racing was taking place. As the year went on, there was very minimal tech. A plate check, a carb check and a spring check every now and then. It didn't take long for builders to see what "wasn't" taking place. By that I mean they realized there were areas they could work in and not get caught because they knew there was not going to be a check there. Example: No head was removed during the entire year. No cc check during the entire year. No stroke check during the entire year. No cam profile during the entire year. The points got close and the second and third place karts, as well as others, were begging for an inspection of the points leader just to be sure things were on the up and up to the rest of the class. Finally, the points got to where within the next two races the outcome as to who would become the track champion could be determined by who was to win. The next to the last race had a protest fee of $100.00 dollars put up. This would never have happened if the tech would have been doing his job correctly as the year went on. The $100.00 tech required the protester engine be inspected " complete" first and then followed by the winning engine as long as the protester engine was legal. The protester engine was an AKRA member. The protester engine passed tech but there was hardly any tech performed. The carb came off and was briefly inspected. The head came off. The intake valve was not removed. Springs were teched. That was it!!! The engine builder was not present for the tear down. The owner of the engine knew literally nothing about how a tech was to be done let alone any knowledge about the legality of an engine. The tech asked the engine owner if he was satisfied with what was done. He told the owner that if he said yes, the same tech would be done to the winning engine. ( never do that!!! ) Here is where the tech didn't complete his job. He was going to pocket $50.00 of the protest fee for doing a "complete" tech that wasn't "complete". When the so called "complete" tech was done on the protested engine, the engine never came off the kart. Many people were cheated that evening. When the protester contacted me and informed me he was an AKRA member and that the tech was an AKRA tech member, I had to send a letter to all parties involved including the AKRA office explaining all the above. I have not heard back from the tech or the track about this issue. AKRA has given me permission to do as needed to the tech inspector involved. ( possible non renewal of licence ) I must tell you this about the tech inspector. His responsibilities at the track were extended to other areas, including flagging at times and corner responsibilities thus taking time away from his engine responsibilities. Don't get in over your head. If you are the tech, be the tech. I am sure that he had long evenings especially when there was a protest involved that required a thorough inspection. However, thought should have been given to the situation and another method of solving the problem for both parties involved should have been reached. If not, then a "complete tech " should have taken place. As of this point in time, it is not clear if the track champion in that class did it in an honest manner. The entire situation has and did cause friendships and comroddery to dissolve and now will be carried into the next season.
So, now you see the importance of staying on top of your game as a tech inspector. Do you want the title or do you want the job that goes along with the title???

In light of the most recent misunderstanding / interpretation of proper procedure pertaining to the CC process of the clone engine, I have spoken with AKRA and we are in agreement to the following process/procedure. Fill the burette up above the zero line with clean marvel mystery oil . Hold the burette as close to vertical as possible. Open the stopcock and run the fluid out until the bottom of the curved line is lined up with the zero line. Wipe any drips from the tip of the burette. Install the cc plug in the spark plug hole and bottom by hand. Back the cc plug out tow (2) turns. Set the engine such that the head is level. Tip the engine to the right (with the pto side facing you) so there is a 6 degree angle. Turn the crankshaft by hand until the piston is approx .100 inch before TDC making sure both valves are closed. Recheck the (0) line of the fluid in the burette. Begin adding the prescribed amount of fluid to the combustion chamber for that particular engine. It is advised to begin the fluid with a dripping process for the first 2 or 3 cc. Then open the stopcock to the speed of 4 to 5 seconds between CC's. Allow the fluid to flow at this rate until you get to one (1) cc of the total and stop. Stopping here is to make sure you do not over run the fluid by accident. From here you will continue to drop the proper remaining amount slowly until the bottom of the curved line is lined up with the prescribed combustion chamber volume for that engine. Remove the burett and torque the CC plug to 90 inch lbs. Slowly turn the crankshaft so that the piston moves through TDC. If the fluid does not run out of the plug the engine is legal on CC. If any fluid spills out on to the top of the tool ( plug ) it is illegal.

Note: At no time do you stop and wait for any fluid to drain down the inside of the burette before continuing the process. The only time you will stop the process is to verify that you have stopped one (1) CC before the final CC is added. That particular stop should be no longer than just the amount of time to verify that you are good to continue.

At no time should you leave the CC process and walk away from the task for any length of time. If you do, that part of the engine inspection is null and void!! You may not return to finish the task!!!!

Donald E. Gordner
130 Stryker Av.
Montgomery, Pa, 17752
570-515-0379

                                      2024 AKRA TECH INSPECTORS

Don Gordner                     Watsontown, Pa.                        570-515-0379
National Tech Inspector / Instructor / Northeast Regional Representative

William Tuttle                    Candor N.Y..                             607-427-1349
National Tech Inspector / New york State Representative

Ronald Holliday Augusta W. Va. 540-533-1598
National Tech Inspector / West Virginia State Representative

Mark Rohdes Roaring Springs Pa. 3/24 814-224-5073.
Butch Ervin    Conyngham Pa. 4/24 570-233-4990
Ronald Holliday    Augusta W.V. 4/24 540-533-1598
Kevin Matteson Bolivar New york. 2/24. 585-307-4634
David Hudec. San Angelo Tx. 2/24 325-227-5859
Barry Wallace. Lockport NY. 2/24 716-514-6770
Joseph Muckle. Stephentown NY. 4/24. 860-681-2907
Sean Lynd. Port Clinton Ohio. 2/24 419-656-7598
Roland Duyn. Northport Florida. 4/24 941-468-2216
Randall Lark Gate City. Va. 4/24 276-594-7365
Jon Ray Waver.y Ohio. 5/2024. 740-222-8299
Brian Nornhold. Selinsgrove Pa. 8/24. 570-492-0481
Karissa Springer. Selinsgrove Pa. 8/24 570-492-0481
Jason Chapman. Huntington Ariz. 10/2023. 479-597-0136
Keith Sturek. Johnson City N.Y. 10/2023. 607-621-8634
Anthony Chandler. Crawfordville Fl. 11/2023. 850-926-2191
Christopher Lopez. Andover NY. 11/2023. 607-968-4608
Stanley Carolino Trafford Pa. 12/23. 412-835-0302
Anthony Carolino Tafford Pa. 1/24. 412-926-2101
Alex Carmody. Corning NY. 1/24. 602-425-1849
Dale Shinebarger. Hornell NY. 1/24. 607-382-3021
Kenrick King. Eustis Florida. 1/24. 434-532-3335
Rick Yurecka. Johnson City NY. 1/24. 607-760-7243
Michael Moubray. Clarksville Ohio. 2/24. 937-272-2832
Barry Rose. West Portsmouth Ohio. 2/24. 740-858-5969
Gerald Stevens. Circleville Ohio. 2/24. 614-893-5660
Justin McNutt. West Portsmouth Ohio. 2/24. 740-357-7565
John Bailey. Adrian Michigan. 2/24. 517-673-3347
Chad Edelen. Borden Indiana. 2/24. 502-594-7099
Tim Burkhammer. Weston West Va. 2/24. 304-918-4998
Mat Chavis Canajoharie NY 3/24 336-926-0001
Andrew Martin Cartersville Ga 3/24 678-848-0044
Eric Fisher Andersonville Tn. 3/24. 865-964-0233
Anthony “Tater” Petty Tazwell Tn. 3/24. 865-585-1331
Simons Houston. McMinville Tn. 3/24 931-743-2596
James Gibson. Knoxville Tn. 3/24 865-256-4249
Scott States. Talbott Tn. 3/24 814-873-8198
Corey Turner. McMinville Tn. 3/24. 931-409-8613
Keith Edwards Sylvester Ga. 3/24 229-343-8684
Matt Martin Cartersville Ga. 3/24 678-602-3313
Jerry Worsham Knoxville Tn. 3/24 865-705-9861
Gordon Hall Dandridge Tn. 3/24. 865-705-0236
Ronnie Green. Dandridge Tn. 3/24. 865-209-9897
Richard Matthews Dandridge Tn. 3/24. 865-318-5206
Henderson Dunsmore. Tazewell Tn. 3/24 423-489-0201
Justin Swanger St. Marys Pa. 4/24 814-599-6688
David Hall Purcellville Va. 3/24 571-271-5027
David Hendershot Columbia Md. 4/24 412-287-0835
Michael Diem York Pa. 4/24 717-542-6707
Richard Diem York Pa. 4/24 717-542-3263
Jason Lipps Weston WV. 4/24 304-695-7321
Jonathan “JJ” Vece. Wallingford Ct. 5/24 203-213-0740
Tiger Chapman Cape Vincent NY 7/24 585-489-6144
Jay Anderson Jamestown New York 7/24 716-485-1756
Jon Ray Waverly Ohio 7/24 740-222-8299
Nick Herriven. Middleport NY 7/24 716-531-5577
Brandon Clapperton Deposit NY 7/24. 607-287-0117
Steven Blake Marshall Texas 8/24 469-515-5338
Gerald Thayer Parish N.Y. 8/24 315-907-2585
Josh Philpott Middleport NY 9/24. 276-224-5281
Ron Chaffin Port Clinton Ohio 9/24 419-656-3613

Proper procedure for the 10.8 and 18 lb. spring weight tool

I have been in search of the perfect 18lb spring pressure at the .650 check point for quite some time now after being removed from the engine for the purpose of identifying an uninstalled height and I have found it. There is a lot to this topic but it is not the purpose of this information piece. I mentioned it because it plays a role in what I am about to share with you.

     The spring I have found was put in the checking tool for legality. One of the ways I was testing springs before this one was to put my fingers under the weight and try to spin the .650 spacer that the spring sits in or to try to slide the spacer back and forth. I felt that I had a pretty good feel for that method. Until I found this spring.

     Proper procedure is to put the spring in the spacer, ( spring must slide over shaft without any help or it is to be D.Q."d) place the weights on the shaft. Then push down on the weights for approx. 10 seconds or so. Now here is what I found. With a spring that has that much pressure,( 18 lbs ) it is trying to push up on the weight and the slightest touch will allow the spring to raise the weight. My fingers actually touched the weight trying to get under the weight and it bumped it enough that it could be considered illegal by my method of using my fingers to move the spacer. I then put pressure on it again for 10 seconds and this time used a flashlight to view under the weight for light to show between the spacer and the shim. It did not show any light. There may be a section of the 360* that the weight is sitting on that shows some light through. NOTE: As long as there is any portion of the weight touching the spacer it is determined legal. Legal at this point.    I took a led pencil and tapped the weight two times and the light did shine through the space between the spacer and the weight. Now it is considered illegal. If you are checking a spring that is "on the money" and you move the spacer even the slightest, or bump the weights, that movement will allow the spring to lift the weights and you could make an incorrect call.

     So with that being said, it is in your best interest when using the weights to check springs to use a light for determination of legality and not to touch the spacers with your fingers.

                                                                 Good Teching and God Bless
                                            Don Gordner; Northeast National Tech Advisor/Instructor

Proper Proceedure for Using the .815 Installed Height Gauge:

I had a karter call me and ask if he could bring his head to me for a back up decision pertaining to a DQ of the .815 gauge. The tech man that DQ"d the head was not an AKRA certified Tech. Upon first checking the head I noticed that the gauge did not want to go in. I played with it a few minutes and all of a sudden the gauge went in. After attempting to get the gauge in a few more times with failure, Once again it went in. It was then when I realized that when the gauge went in I was starting the bottom of the gauge in on the seal first and then tipping the top of the gauge inwards and it would go in every time. If I tried to put the gauge in square to the seal and retainer, it would not go. Keep this information in mind when checking this area of tech. Also keep in mind that there is a portion of the head where the valve spring rests on some heads that have a ridge ( exhaust side ) which protrudes upwards. If you were to remove all seals you will see what I am talking about. The bottom of the .815 gauge, on some of the heads, will rest on the ridge and not give you an accurate reading "if" the head is not using enough shims to extend above the ridge. I have known this ridge to be in excess of .027. Many of the oil seals only measure approx. .024. that leaves a void of approx. .003 that your gauge is not reading. You need to be aware of this due to the fact that you could inadvertently DQ a karter that you feel has not met the .815 rule. some heads ( like the older 86 ) are really deep cut for the spring to rest and the ridge does not allow the .815 gauge to do it's job properly. to avoid this situation, I cut a small corner off my gauge so that it would miss the ridge. Otherwise, you may need to find another method to measure. There is the old flatty way if ya know how to do it. Below is a picture of the gauge demonstrating the area I milled .025 of f ( red area) for the purpose of missing the corner on some of the heads at the base of the valve spring.

AKRA Quick Check Sheet
   NOTE. This information is not updated

Pro Header: mounting flange .500 both weenie and pro. 20.5 max length/16.5 min lenght
   Screen holes 1.285 inner and outer. Max height from flange to top of pipe curve 10 in
   9 inch max heigth to bottom of muffler with with engine sitting on flat surface

CARB: Huayi or Rui*ing or Tillotson.
            .615 venturi; .751 rear bore; .750 max. depth to ridge behind butterfly: .042 main .066 e-tube ( no pass through ) ; 2 or 4 holes max. not to exceed .036 ; 1.092 min. length; .115 min. shaft thickness; .037 min. butterfly; Screw Min. length .305; 1.375 max. air adapter; .265 across gasket mating surface of insulator. no size on hole. hole may not be altered with rifling, dimpling, circular ridging, etc. ( no attempt may be made to redirect the flow ) mounting holes not to exceed .300.

Restrictor plates: Red .375. Green .425. Purple .500. Blue .550

Head:    Seats; 45* face,   30* top relief, 60* bottom relief. Intake seat max. inside dia. .897 / Exhaust .862   No sinking of the valves below deck of chamber;   Max. .005 between valves measured in a cross pattern

Valves: 45* both valves; Intake Max. outside Dia. .982 ( plus or minus .005)    (21 grams weight per valve min). Exhaust Max. outside Dia. .945 ( plus or minus .005)

Lifters: (18 grams)     Push rods ( 10 grams )

Springs: Measured in the following order: Max. wire Dia. .071: .815 installed height; 10.8lbs        @ .850   18lbs @ .650;    .045 total shims allowed. No more than .040 from side to side for total height difference

Cam:    Base circle .865 ( minus .005 / plus .010 )
            Intake push rod duration 218.5 @ .050 / 85.5 @ .200 ( + 2 degrees ) Pushrod length 5.285 max (10 grams) Max. / Min. cam lift .225/.215         Max. lift intake .238 / max lift exhaust .242.

Exhaust push rod duration 221.5 @ .050 / 96.5 @ .200 ( + 2 / - 5 degrees ) Lifter weight 18 grams
                        Max. / Min. cam lift .232/.222          Max. lift .242

Block:    2.691 Max. bore; 26.5 CC Oil return hole not to exceed ( .251 )

Piston: Max. length 1.935 / .580 from wristpin to top of piston ( 145 grams )

Wrist pin: ( 2.100 Min. length ) ( .550 max. I.D. )

Rings: top and middle .115 max width / .060 max. thickness   .040 max. endgap when installed.

Crankshaft:    2.123 ( + / - .010 1.180 Max. journal / 1.168 Min. journal

Rod: 2.375 max. length/2.350 min. length         oil hole .180 no go   ( 133 grams )

Exhaust: (Weenie) .750 O.D. tubing. Total length 15in. Max. / 10 in. Min.    Pro class 16.5 min. and 20.5 max. in. NOTE: The weenie pipe may not exceed 14.5 inches when measured from a flat surface ( less engine mount ) to the furthest point at the bottom of the silencer. The pro pipe may not exceed 10 inches at the highest point from the top of the exhaust flange and may not exceed 9 inches when on a flat surface ( less the engine mount ) to the furthest point at the bottom of the silencer.

Silencer: 5.470 Min. / 5.600 Max. ( .685 Max. I.D. threaded nipple )
                .1285 Max. rear baffle holes / .0965 inner baffle holes.